(Havana)
Overview:
“Cuba Si, Castro No!” These were the famous last words of the Cuban-American community in Miami the night of November 25th, 2016 as they chanted in celebration of Dictator Fidel Castro’s demise. Growing up a product of the Cuban exile experience in Miami, I was taught from an early age to have pride in my heritage and denounce anything resembling the socialist ideals that ruined the once-prosperous nation. While both of these traits still hold true in my life today, I’ve always had a burning passion and curiosity about the origins of my culture and family roots. I was afforded the opportunity nearly 3 years ago to travel to the island with my mother where we were able to experience Cuba firsthand and uncover pieces of our family history. This occasion was and always will be one of the most sacred experiences of my lifetime, including walking through an old family home and seeing the church where my father was baptized. However, being a Cuban-American in Miami and mentioning a trip of this nature to anyone will garner a very polarizing reaction, to say the least. The older generations perceive me as being a Castro sympathizer for traveling to Cuba while the younger generations see me going to the island as a novelty. My response to everyone is that I’m not a socialist nor a vapid traveler looking for my next Instagram moment, but rather a passionate, Cuban millennial in search of connecting with my heritage. While the relationship between both the American & Cuban governments is strained, to say the least, it seems that no American President has been able to mend the issues between both our peoples. My dream for the people of Cuba would be to live in a free country, one that works for all and holds the sanctity of democracy above any one person. However, I too am not naive and understand this is a long-term hope of mine. What I pray for in the near future is that one day, our two governments can discuss a plausible reconnection. One where we somehow hold the Cuban government accountable yet also make way for American dollars to generate through their economy. This, in turn, would make way for more Cuban entrepreneurs to open restaurants, bars, and Airbnb rentals; tourism being the only way for financial freedom outside of the caste-like system that still exists today. Wishing for a democracy seems far-fetched at this moment in time, yet creating an entrepreneurial spirit for the Cuban people in the tourism sector would make way for financial independence. Capitalism may not be perfect, but it is certainly a move in the positive direction towards more freedom for the Cuban people.
The following is an account of my experience traveling to Cuba from what I know best, culture & cuisine. I do not glorify the Castro regime or the policies in which they have in place to intimidate, harm, and murder, innocent civilians, when speaking out against the government. The aim of this post is to highlight Cuban exceptionalism through the culinary, performing, and visual artforms. Being born on the privileged side of history is something I don’t take for granted and my wish is that we all can one day see the extraordinary Cuban people live in a free nation.
Where to Dine:
La Guarida - Iconic Havana Institution, Exceptional Cuisine
Café Laurent - Cute Rooftop Restaurant, Great Views
La Bodeguita del Medio- Hemingway Bar, Old Havana
Atelier - Relaxing Home-like Atmosphere
Where to Stay:
Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski - Luxury Hotel, Modern, Best Rooftop
Saratoga Havana - Old School, Central Havana Institution
Hotel Nacional - Iconic, Water Views
Airbnb - House Rental
Where to Play:
Fábrica de Arte - Edgy, Art Space, Nightclub
Vintage Car Tour - 1950s Car Ride & Tour
El Malecon - Famous, Waterfront Boulevard
Tropicana Club - Iconic, Club & Show
(Old Havana)
Blog:
For many years of my life, there was always a giant void when describing the origins of my family background. My genetic makeup is a mix of Irish and German ancestry along with northern Spanish lineage via the island of Cuba. Spending the majority of my existence in Miami, I connected heavily with anything and everything Cuban related. The people I surrounded myself with during my youth were individuals who came from large, extended families with a strong Cuban identity. For someone like me who not only came from a smaller family but was not of Cuban purebred status, that also made my curiosity all the more fervent. It had always been a dream of mine to one day visit a liberated Cuba with my loved ones and walk down the yellow brick road of our family’s past. So when I had the opportunity of visiting the island in 2017 with my mother, I realized this pilgrimage was not just some ordinary holiday. This was truly a defining moment in our family’s history.
(Havana Cathedral)
Arriving at Havana’s international airport after the mere one-hour flight from Miami was like entering a whole new era. Upon landing it had finally hit me that this opportunity of visiting a place like Cuba was something bigger than myself. This was the first time in well over 50 years that a member of my family had visited the island. Walking from the jetway into the central terminal of the airport was an immediate wake-up call that we departed 2017 and time-traveled to a version of the 1960s that happened to be frozen in time. Dramatics aside, my initial reaction when going from the airport into the heart of the city was that Cuba was a lush country with vibrant colors and sounds everywhere. Driving through Havana was an explosive experience for the senses, where my eyes caught the fluorescent colored cars zooming past rustic apartment buildings and colonial fortresses. The sounds were everything I grew up hearing yet amplified to another level. The instant I stepped out of that taxicab, I realized my explorations throughout Havana were not only going to be sentimental, but they were also going to be mesmerizing.
(Rooftop from the Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski)
Strolling through Havana’s pedestrian thoroughfare, Calle Obispo it became evident that this was the central artery for both locals and foreigners. Walking past every street in Old Havana one could see everything from immaculate colonial structures to dilapidated buildings with impoverished inhabitants. Havana is in many ways enigmatic because on one hand there’s a whole world for visitors to see where the buildings are well preserved and the Internet comes rapidly. Yet on the opposite side of the spectrum, the majority of Havana lives in the shadows of the tourist realm, under dire circumstances. More often than not, people resort to the most extreme measures just to obtain proper nourishment. Although heartbreaking to witness I feel seeing all sides to this city when visiting is important because it allows for a balanced cultural understanding.
Hiring a driver with a bright, vintage Cadillac convertible was by far one of the highlights from our trip. Havana is known for being a city of many layers where colonial architecture meets the mid-twentieth century innovations. Exploring the modern section of the city along the majestic Malecon, the seaside boulevard is a great transition from the old-world fortresses in the historic center. As one drives through the residential neighborhoods of Vedado and Miramar, it becomes easier to envision what life was like prior to the Revolution of 1959. Tree-lined boulevards perfectly frame stately homes in what were once the affluent neighborhoods of the city. It was a profound experience getting to see the old house and church where my predecessors once frequented in charming Miramar.
(La Guarida, Havana)
The culinary flavors of Havana were some of the most exciting and surprising discoveries while on my trip to the city. Prior to my visit, I envisioned the restaurant scene to be stuck in a time warp much like the physical layout of the city. La Guarida is one example of an establishment that takes a historic ambiance but caters to contemporary tastes. The restaurant is actually a paladar, a privately-owned space that was once residential in which has transformed into a full-blown restaurant. The outdoor terrace provides a stunning view of the entire city where the crafted cocktails complement the exquisite food. To start, the flavorful pesto ravioli was by far my favorite appetizer. For a primary dish, I recommend the fresh snapper with tomato, plantain purée or the incredible miniature sirloin steaks drizzled in a béarnaise sauce. La Guarida is one of those culinary experiences that stays with you because of the rich history, the exceptional service, and of course the over-the-top local and international fare.
Another incredible highlight from my trip to the island of Cuba was watching a phenomenal show at the iconic Tropicana Club just outside of the capital. The Tropicana Club is a lush, tropical forest outside the bustling downtown core. This outdoor club is a national institution where the art of singing, dancing, and cabaret have been masterfully performed since the 1930s. The colorful costumes, contagious passion, and extreme athleticism from every performer are beyond anything I’ve witnessed in the United States. The Spanish meets Caribbean storytelling in remarkable and could easily compete to be one of the best shows in New York or Las Vegas.
(Tropicana Club)
Cuba was by far one of the greatest travel experiences of my entire life, getting to retrace my family lineage. All the things I learned throughout my childhood I was able to discover for myself on this trip. My mom and I were blessed to interact with some of the nicest people and understand what life is like for those on the other side of history. Although the government may not be one I will ever see eye-to-eye on politically, I can appreciate the spirit and pride of the Cuban people. Walking through the streets and speaking to the locals gave me both a sense of pride and a sense of sadness. There was an abundant sense of pride being able to imbibe the Cuban culture from the direct source, unlike most of my life. However, the sadness, on the other hand, came from my return to the States when I thought about the innocent people who still call the island home. We are blessed to visit a beautiful country on a vacation, however, the locals don’t get to enjoy a quintessential holiday as we did. The lifestyles we witnessed for the few days we were there were, in fact, their harsh realities. However, I came back home feeling blessed for all the efforts it took for my predecessors to establish a life here in the United States. In addition to finally being able to discover our homeland at this point in my life.
(Nico in Havana)
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