(Piazza Navona)
Overview:
The cobblestone streets, alleyways, and ruins of Rome all contribute to describing the Eternal City’s dynamic and colorful past. A city known for being the epicenter of an empire as well as the center of an entire religion; Rome’s energy is by no means stuck in the past but alive in the present. Much of this city has played setting to my very own story over the course of the past few years. Having spent a combined total of 2.5 years in the Eternal City, I’ve been fortunate enough to delve deep into this city’s culture beyond the obvious attractions. Although the revered sites of the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps are remarkable as historic landmarks, I find the neighborhoods beyond the tourist center to be where the true heartbeat of Rome lives and thrives. Areas like Pigneto, Testaccio, and San Giovanni have all risen as cultural destinations that bring both Romans and visitors together. When people travel to a city as historically significant as Rome, it's important to see the points of interest, however, I always tell visitors that the true splendor of Rome is usually found at a local-only trattorias where the pasta is al dente and liters of wine are free-flowing.
Where to Dine:
Cesare al Casaletto - Local, Fantastic Trattoria, Off the Beaten Track
Trapizzino - Street Food, Inexpensive
Sbanco - Local, Quality Pizzeria, San Giovanni
Taverna i Torquati - Local, Great Value, Off the Beaten Track
Taverna Trilussa - Romantic Outdoor Seating, Quality Pasta
Where to Stay:
Hotel Hassler - Luxury, Great Views, Spanish Steps
Hotel Raphael - Romantic, Boutique Accommodation
Generator Rome - Modern, Hip, Hostel
Babuino 181 Luxury Suites - Apartment-Style Lodging, Spanish Steps
Hotel de Russie - Luxury, Romantic Patio, Piazza del Popolo
Where to Play:
The Sanctuary - Outdoor Nightclub, Balinese Garden
Pigneto - Edgy, Artistic, Rome’s Brooklyn
Spirito - Contemporary Cocktails, Speakeasy, Pigneto
Testaccio - Local, Great Restaurants & Nightlife
Trastevere - Romantic, Artistic, Popular Among Visitors
(Dar Poeta, Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Tonnarello)
Blog:
Rome is a destination travelers believe to have all figured out by the time they board their transatlantic flight to the Italian peninsula. We spend hours dedicated to studying the craft; we read the guidebooks, research the travel blogs, and watch Anthony Bourdain episodes on a continuous loop. A city of this caliber does in some ways feel familiar from references we’re exposed to in history, film, and religion. However, Rome featured on every “Top 10 List” versus the city beyond the tourist areas could not be more different in actuality. I, myself upon moving there for the first time in 2013, assumed I had the Eternal City all figured out. My three prior visits created no necessity for cultural acclimation per se, yet I was still unaware of the true delights of this city that quietly existed beyond the tourist realm. Walking an extra few blocks, taking the metro past your station, or riding in a taxi a mere 10 to 15 minutes away from the Colosseum or Trevi Fountain opens up a whole new world for visitors. Quaint churches that house remarkable Caravaggio paintings & real, authentic trattorias represent the culinary and cultural playgrounds most Romans love and cherish.
(Colosseum)
One of my favorite neighborhoods I appreciate so much but have yet to uncover every layer is the hipster magnet that is colorful Pigneto. Much like the story of other prior working-class neighborhoods, Pigneto experienced a Cinderella-like renaissance thanks in large part to the collegiate community of the nearby La Sapienza University (Rome’s largest). A place once known for being rough around the edges, today is Rome’s diamond in the rough. Restaurants and trendy bars are emerging one-by-one almost like an orchid plant waiting to burst into full bloom. Trattoria Pigneto featured on an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s, The Layover under a different name, still produces some of the best porchetta and traditional Roman pasta in town. The scene is beyond casual with picnic bench seating and where the waiters treat you like you’re a patron that’s been coming for years. Liters of house wine are a mere few euros and the pasta and meat dishes start at only 8 euros. While Trattoria Pigneto is the casual spot to dine, just a few blocks away is one of the area’s most famous places to drink, Bar Necci dal 1924. Necci is a popular, locals-only drinking establishment where patrons get to enjoy the outdoor patio any time of year to sip on a smooth beer or a stiff Negroni. Just across the street from Necci is my personal favorite watering hole in the neighborhood, Spirito. Walk through Premiata Panineria, a retro-inspired burger joint where you will find a mysterious door towards the back. Press the nearby button and enter a private bar or speakeasy known for craft cocktails as well as their rouge-meets-noir motif. The grand roulette table serves as the centerpiece of the perfectly curated cocktail bar. Knockback a few negronis or Aperol Spritz and while you’re at it order a delicious burger from their nearby neighbor. My recommendation for Pigneto is to get there before sundown to enjoy the colorful murals around the neighborhood, a leisurely dinner at a local trattoria, and cap the night with a well-crafted beverage.
(Pigneto)
Now if you’re looking for a local experience that’s not further afield and closer to the tourist center, then make your way towards San Giovanni. The Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, arguably Rome’s second most important church is the primary reason people visit this area of Rome. Upon walking up the steps of this impressive architectural gem, it's no secret why this is widely recognized as one of Rome’s greatest religious treasures. Less intimidating in stature than St. Peter’s, this basilica provides visitors a more relaxed religious experience. San Giovanni, in my opinion, is one of Rome’s most local and walkable areas with great restaurants and quaint cafes on every block. One of the city’s most exciting dining establishments, Santo Palato takes inspiration from the city’s rich past and present. Designed in pastel orange, the space is cozy and unassuming with an emphasis on the quality of their products. Although newer to the culinary scene, Santo Palato stands out with their dishes like their rich ricotta and crushed tomato bruschetta and the hearty rigatoni all’amatriciana. On the other side of the spectrum, sometimes you need familiarity when traveling to a foreign land and in Italy, that means pizza. Brightly lit situated on a quiet street in San Giovanni, Sbanco produces hundreds of incredible pies daily catering to mostly locals. Classics like the stracciatella or diavola are revered, however, the star of the show here is the cacio e pepe pizza. Taking inspiration from the iconic Roman pasta dish, the pizzaiolos at Sbanco create bread, cheese, and pepper magic in the form of a pie.
(Aperol Spritz from La Rinascente Rooftop)
Tucked away along the eastern side of the Tiber River sits one of Rome’s greatest all-around neighborhoods, Testaccio. In my opinion, Testaccio is like the “jack of all trades” in regards to popular areas of the Eternal City. This quarter has it all, food halls, nightclubs, fine dining, and even ancient ruins. Situated just mere feet from the bustling train station, Ostiense, lies the Pyramid of Cestius. This ancient monument makes one almost question even momentarily if they're still in Europe. However, the cool factor regarding this neighborhood is found off the main streets and inside the local eateries and bars. For a refined dining experience where the service is top-notch and the plates of meat and pasta are exquisite, head no further than Da Felice. Da Felice a Testaccio brings old school elegance with a welcoming attitude towards both locals and visitors. One of my all-time favorite restaurants in the Eternal City. Yet if you’re in the market for finding a quick and inexpensive bite, take advantage of Rome’s most iconic street food, Trapizzino. This triangular piece of fluffy dough is filled with explosive ingredients like meatballs, eggplant parmesan, or chicken cacciatore. Priced at only four euros, I recommend trying a sampler of two or three and enjoy yourself a cheap and authentic meal. Food halls and markets are also quite the talk of the town in this neighborhood of Rome. Mercato Testaccio is an outdoor culinary destination that during the week highlights some of the city’s greatest chefs and dishes. Open every day is the worldwide phenomenon many of us know as Eataly. This Italian emporium feels more like an aircraft hanger than just any ubiquitous grocery store. However, the restaurants and products for sale here are just simply amazing. After sampling local fare through one of the city’s “it-neighborhoods” make sure to walk through the nightlife district and enjoy the local club scene.
(Aqueduct Park)
When I envision Rome, having lived there on-and-off over the course of 6 years, I think about the greats of gastronomy more than the larger-than-life monuments. The cultural and historical sites are indeed fantastic yet they resemble the city of the ancient past. The restaurants, bars, and cafes of the truly local neighborhoods resemble Rome’s thriving present. My all-time favorite place to eat is Da Cesare al Casaletto, a quintessentially Roman trattoria where the decor is unchanged and the plates are traditional, seasonal, and all-around great. Situated just west of trendy Trastevere in an area known as Monteverde, a local haven known famously for its large recreational park and a handful of fantastic restaurants. Sure the meatballs, cacio e pepe, and amatriciana are all exceptional here, yet I find my favorite part about going here is the place itself. For me, dining at Da Cesare is very much a true Roman experience, eating popular local dishes off the beaten tourist path & being surrounded by a mix of people, old and young. The allure and magnetic pull of Rome may be found on the charming roads and lanes that are paved in serpentine shapes throughout the old center. Yet for me, an ex-quasi local the beauty of the Roman way of life is found in the most traditional of trattorias, listening to locals debate their favorite soccer players, savoring explosive pasta, and sipping on house wine.
(Trastevere)
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